![sketchup number of facets on circle sketchup number of facets on circle](https://apprize.best/gadget/sketchup/sketchup.files/image026.jpg)
Because I used the tolMax, the bearings have a lot of play. Even so, I had to do a bit of work with an xacto knife before they spun smoothly, and it needed a bit of a wear in to get really smooth. I’ve printed one of the Closed sided models, using the loose tolerance models (tolMax). There are a lot of models, but I’ve seen: Some people smarter than me have spent time designing cylindrical bearings, which are more 3D printing friendly. Normally that can be handled by using supports, but that doesn’t work when the spheres are inside the piece. Spheres don’t work particularly well due to the way they go from a point at the bottom to a large circle in a very short vertical distance.
![sketchup number of facets on circle sketchup number of facets on circle](https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/sketchup/optimized/3X/0/0/00145cc2d11b3d4ff7fb3af073aab532b3afcdba_2_690x392.png)
3D printing works by melting filament and depositing it on something, like the build plate or the previous layer, working from the bottom to the top. I will need some advice on making those gears but I will ask for that later on a separate topic.įrom what I’ve found, it seems like 3D printers don’t do ball bearings well, but they can do something similar. Your advice on this will also partly answer my other difficult parts, a 200mm diameter bevel gear, an 80 - 100mm diam. How accurate is the Smapmaker in making large diameter “perfect” circles?Īnd, how can I get very smooth inner surfaces for the balls to ride on? The bearing will not have to support much weight, maybe 1/2 kilo tops. (There does not seem to be any way to attach a drawing to this question) The rings have to be as circular as possible and the inner bearing surfaces as smooth as possible. One part is a pair of radial ball bearing races, approx 300mm outer diameter and about 250mm inner diameter, in 2 parts with 1/4 inch ball bearings in between.
#Sketchup number of facets on circle how to
I am designing a device that has 3+ very difficult parts to make, and I am seeking advice on how to plan and eventually print them. It will be a Snapmaker as I will need all 3 functions, print, CNC and laser, maybe even the rotary mill. But they're there.First off, I do not yet have a Snapmaker 350, but I will soon.
![sketchup number of facets on circle sketchup number of facets on circle](https://anitabrowndesignstudio.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/cicrle-tool-sketchup-4.jpg)
Make those increments very tiny and they can't be detected by eye or touch.
![sketchup number of facets on circle sketchup number of facets on circle](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/50ec5584e4b04b8b893441d7/1395876751418-V7N4YRCO4C6531NFCE34/image-asset.png)
And when you come to think about it, in the milling machines that make such things as router bits, the tool moves in increments. Granted, they may be very small segments and be obscured by the resolution of your display, but they are there nonetheless. On the screen, these shapes are represented by segments.
#Sketchup number of facets on circle software
You can always explode the group (or component) once it's in place.ĮTA: Only the very top-of-the-line CAD and solid modeling software treats circles and arcs, curves, splines, etc as true mathematical curves. Editing a group won't affect other similar groups. For one or two unique profiles: use groups. You can also make the profile into a component, but before editing a component, make it unique, or all other components of the same name will be changed! For repetitive shapes, such as railing spindles, use components. I can then copy that group to any location I wish, then edit it to the correct length, trim it, etc. When I run into this glitch, I just make a "piece of stock" as it were: a 12-inch-long section of the profile that is perfect. It's a pain, but to restore the pristine beauty of your extruded shape, zoom in so that offending lines fill a large region of your screen and using the "Eraser" tool and holding down the CTRL key, change the lines to "smooth" and "soft". Just turn on "Hidden Geometry" (View menu) to see them. Now when you extrude a shape as above where the circle, arc or other curve is still "curvy" there won't be any visible lines-or anyway, fewer of them. I think it is a mystery (even to the folks at Sketchup) why exactly this occurs, but it does. You may have noticed that if you draw a diameter across a circle, the circle ceases to exist, being replaced by two arcs. When you then extrude the shape, using "Follow Me" or the "Push-Pull" tools, the ends of those edges draw lines that are visible. If you then trim that curve, or join it to a line or other curve, the "curviness" of profile becomes individual edges. When you use the "Follow Me" or "Push-Pull" tools with a face that has "curved" edges, either an arc, circle, or other curve, the curve itself is made of segments as mentioned by Mike above.